Cartier's Kinetic Flower: A Vintage Gold Brooch in Full Bloom

Every vintage jewellery dealer should surround him-/herself with as much reference work as possible and the book "Understanding Jewellery - The 20th Century" by David Bennet and Daniela Mascetti is an example of what should not be missing from the library.
In our case, there was an even bigger pleasant surprise that we've discovered within its pages than just the extent of documentation. We've found a brooch displayed that's remarkably similar to the vintage Cartier gold kinetic flower brooch in our jewellery collection.

While unfolding the five petals of gold gauze, a trembleuse heart of diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds arises from this Fifties 18K yellow gold flower brooch signed by Cartier.
With all its colour and gimmickry, this meticulously crafted statement piece can portray your every mood. Wear it with the flower wide open, and let your own magnificence radiate through the flickering gems as they jitter on top of their stems with every move you make. Or wear the flower as a closed bud and present a more mysterious and timid character full of promise with the potential of blossoming.
Oh who are we kidding, this Cartier piece doesn't need our humble words. Let it speak for itself and you will see that this striking jewel simply fulfills everything one desires from any occasion.

Antique jewelry object group: brooch

Condition: excellent condition
  -  (more info on our condition scale)

Country of origin: France

Style: Vintage Fifties (of the twentieth century)
  -  See also: Fifties (of the twentieth century) or more info on styles

Period: ca. 1950
  -  (events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era)

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature (see also: flower symbolism)

Theme: Flower

Material: 18K yellow gold
  -  (more info on precious metals)

Technique: Tremblant or Trembleuse - Tremblant is French for "trembling". Referring to a jewel decorated with a flower or other motif that has at the top stiff projecting wires (embellished with gemstones) that tremble when the piece is subjected to any movement. Sometimes the projections are finely coiled silver springs, such as were used in the 18th century, but some examples were made with tubular stems enclosing a strip of steel spring.

Diamond(s): Four brilliant cut diamonds with an estimated weight of ± 0.28ct. (colour and clarity: F/G, vs/si).

- All diamond weights, color grades and clarity are approximate since stones are not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Precious stones: Five rubies with an estimated weight of ± 0.28ct.
Four sapphires with an estimated weight of ± 0.22ct.
Four emeralds with an estimated weight of ± 0.16ct.

- All color stone weights are approximate since stones are not removed from their mounts to preserve the integrity of the setting.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April, ruby for July, sapphire for September emerald for May.
  -  (more info on birthstones)

Brand: Cartier

Signature: Cartier

Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838.
  -  (more info on hallmarks)

Dimensions: total length 7,15 cm (2,81 inch)

Weight: 33,60 gram (21,60 dwt)

Reference Nº: 19063-0008

Copyright photography: Adin, fine antique jewelry

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