French Early Victorian antique parure brooch earrings bracelet enameled gold

Here we have an opulent Victorian parure consisting of an 18K red gold bracelet, brooch and earrings with touches of black enamel. A parure is a term of the trade for a matching set of jewellery, meant to be worn together.

As is typical for jewellery dating back to 1840, this parure is marked with a Neo-Gothic quatrefoil. Four lobes of engraved links with a black enamelled centre reach with a smaller one for the piece's middle flower with a Strass stone as its heart and with four petals embellished with black enamel and pearls in between. Sprouting from each link, an engraved leaf grows from an outer ring to a smaller inner ring, which carry each element of riches.
This floral arrangement is the centrepiece of the parure's bracelet with extensive waving plates linked by a cable chain on both sides. Also the brooch is embodied by the same myriad of flowers, crescents and stones, but additionally suspending three foxtail chains with another three green Strass stones, a pearl and three enamelled prongs. The pair of earrings presents the simplified image of the brooch.

Next to the fact that this parure is a lavish flower bed of which no part is left untouched by the elaborations of engravings and enamelling, this treasure is complete with its original jewellery box.

Antique jewelry object group: parure (matching set of jewelry) earrings, brooch and bracelet

Condition: excellent condition
  -  (more info on our condition scale)

Country of origin: This can be of French of Belgian origin because the hallmark used, a horse head, was used in both countries.

Style: Victorian - Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia in furniture, fittings, and Interior decoration. Victorian design is widely viewed as having indulged in a regrettable excess of ornament. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era.
  -  See also: Victorian or more info on styles

Style specifics: Victorian - In 1837 Queen Victoria begins the longest reign in the history of Great Britain. For 64 years, from 1837 till 1901, she symbolizes the growth and triumph of the British Empire as Queen of Great Britain and Ireland and Empress of India. Proud, passionate about beautiful things, highly educated about all styles of time, she influences the lifestyles through her taste and immense love of jewelry.

Victorian decorative arts refers to the style of decorative arts during the Victorian era. The Victorian era is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historic styles and the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the middle east and Asia. The Arts and Crafts movement, the aesthetic movement, Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau style have their beginnings in the late Victorian era. (Last part freely rendered from: Wikipedia)

Period: ca. 1840
  -  (events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era)

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature

Material: 18K red gold
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Technique: Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enameling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colorful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, "an enamel" is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coating, such as a champlevé or a cloisonné (different techniques).

Precious stones: Green strass (also called paste ) as emerald imitation pearls
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Birthstones: Emerald is the birthstone (or month stone) for May and pearl for June.
  -  (more info on birthstones)

Hallmarks: The control mark here represents a horse’s head and was in use in Belgium from 1831 and in France from about 1838.
  -  (more info on hallmarks)

Dimensions: earrings height 4,52 cm (1,78 inch), brooch width 5,07 cm (2,00 inch) and height 9,35 cm (3,68 inch), bracelet length 18,00 cm (7,09 inch), bracelet band width 2,76 cm (1,09 inch), bracelet ornament width 5,33 cm (2,10 inch)

Weight: 76,60 gram (49,25 dwt)

Reference Nº: 15132-0011

Copyright photography: Adin, fine antique jewelry

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