Antique star sapphire link bracelet by Leon Gariod

This Victorian 18K yellow gold link chain bracelet by Leon Gariod stars a coruscating cabochon cut star sapphire entirely encircled by rose cut diamonds. With three diamond-encrusted links leading from each side to this extraordinary eye-catcher and with all 87 stones on this bracelet set in silver on a gold base, every moment that this natural French grandeur isn't worn, is truly a waste. So just follow your heart to this bracelet, just as the sapphire star pursues the slightest source of light.

Object group: Flexible bracelets/bangles: Beneath the jewellery information, you can read more about the jewel's artist in "Artist information".
Country of origin: France
Style: Victorian - (styles overview)
Period: ca. 1880 (events and facts in 1880)
Material: Mostly in 18K gold but the center part is silver on top and backed with 18K yellow gold (see explanation on silver on gold). - (precious metals)
Diamonds: 86 rose cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds which is normal in our trade when it comes to rose cuts.
Precious stones: One cabochon cut star sapphire with a diameter of approx. 1.35 cm (0.53 inch) and a total thickness of approx. 1.17 cm (0.46 inch) - (precious stones)
Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April and sapphire for September. - (general birthstones explanation)
Brand: Master mark (clearly visible on picture) is by Léon Gariod
Hallmarks: The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838 and the French control mark representing an rhinoceros' head that was in use in France from about 1847. - (general hallmarks info)
Condition: excellent condition - (our condition scale)
Dimensions: Length approx. 18.50 cm (7.28 inch)
Weight: 36.20 gram (23.28 dwt)

Artist information:

Let's start looking at the master mark in this piece. We see an "L" and a "G" which was the "poiçon de maître" (French for "master mark") for Léon Gariod. This company was established by Gaucher and Tonnelier in 1859. Gaucher became the sole owner in 1869 and started a partnership with Gariod in 1875 who took over the company in 1884. The company with its address in Rue St. Augustin 29 in Paris became specialized in articulated bracelets and mat gold chains with precious stones.

What's interesting about this company is that they worked very closely together with L.Gautrait, an illuster jeweller of the Art Nouveau period of who not much, if any, biographical information is known. According to Vever (who wrote the "bible" for antique jewelers around 1900), Gautrait was a "ciseleur-modeleur" and fidèle collaborateur" of the Parisian jewellers Léon Gariod. Vever characterised his collegue as an "excellent perfectionistic jeweller with a delicate taste".

Vever continues: "These simple yet decorative jewels were meticulously made and extremely popular. With his attractive brooches and his pendants of contemporary or traditional inspiration, Gariod's work has attracted a great deal of attention. With his faithful collaborator M.(...M and not L ! - Adin) designs and chases these creations, characterized by their great refinement.

See also our:
victorian bracelets
victorian jewelry
jewelry with rose cut diamonds
jewelry with sapphire
bracelets
all signed jewelry
jewelry with birthstones (or month stones) for April
jewelry with birthstones (or month stones) for September
latest acquisitions

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