Neo-Gothic Gold & Enamel Necklace by Jules Wièse – A Froment-Meurice Commission.

A beautifully preserved example of Neo-Gothic jewellery, this mid-19th century necklace by Jules Wièse captures the romance and artistry of the Gothic Revival. Its delicately sculpted links, each adorned with a finely detailed three-sided silver relief of male and female figures, set against deep blue enamel, reflect a time when jewellery was a true expression of history and craftsmanship. Both a collector’s treasure and a wearable antique, this necklace—featured in scholarly works—has retained its splendour for over 150 years, offering a rare connection to the past in a form as graceful today as it was then.

Antique jewelry object group
necklace

Condition
good condition
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Country of origin
France

Style
Gothic Revival
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Style specifics
Neo-Gothic (Gothic Revival) is a 19th-century architectural and artistic movement inspired by medieval Gothic design. It features pointed arches, ribbed vaults, elaborate tracery, and ornate decorations. Popular in Europe and North America, it was used in churches, public buildings, and even jewellery, evoking a sense of history, craftsmanship, and romanticism.

Period
ca. 1850
Events & facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Theme The necklace embodies the romantic medievalism of the Gothic Revival, evoking the grandeur of medieval cathedrals and illuminated manuscripts. Its intricate craftsmanship and historicist aesthetic reflect 19th-century fascination with the past, reinterpreted through the refined artistry of master jewellers.

Material 18K
yellow gold and silver (touchstone tested)
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Technique
Enamelling is an old and widely-adopted technology. The ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The ancient Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese also used enameling processes on metal objects. Enamel is the colorful result of fusing powdered glass to a substrate by firing, usually between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius. The powder melts and flows and hardens to a smooth, durable vitreous coating on metal, glass or ceramic. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the High German word smelzan (to smelt) via the Old French esmail. Used as a noun, "an enamel" is a usually small decorative object, coated with enamel coating, such as a champlevé or a cloisonné (different techniques).

Extra information Jules Wièse, one of the most celebrated French goldsmiths of the 19th century, was renowned for his collaboration with François-Désiré Froment-Meurice, a leading Parisian jeweller. Wièse’s work is distinguished by its exceptional detail, architectural influences, and expert use of enamel, making this necklace a true collector’s piece.

More background information on The Role of Jewellery in the Gothic Revival During the 19th century, the Gothic Revival influenced not only architecture but also decorative arts, including jewellery. Inspired by medieval designs, Gothic Revival jewellery often featured intricate metalwork, enamel, and motifs such as quatrefoils, tracery patterns, and historical portraiture. This necklace exemplifies the era’s craftsmanship and fascination with the medieval past.

Design & Composition
The necklace consists of five flat links and twelve richly decorated links, each featuring a three-sided silver relief of a male or female bust in three-quarter profile. These miniature portraits are set within an oval frame against a deep blue enamel background. The edges of the links are adorned with delicately applied bead-like details, enhancing the decorative appeal.

The portrait links originally belonged to another jewel and were later reassembled into this necklace. As these links alone did not provide sufficient length, five flat links were added to complete the piece.

Some of the links still bear the eagle's head hallmark, the French control mark for 18K gold, in use since circa 1838.

A similar type of three-sided decorated links can be found in two jewels illustrated in Jules Wièse und sein Atelier by Silke Hellmuth (ISBN 978-3-89479-803-1). See also the photos for a visual reference.

Hallmarks
The French control mark for 18K gold representing an eagle's head that was in use in France from about 1838.

Although no maker’s marks are present, this jewel can be attributed with near certainty to Jules Wièse based on its distinctive craftsmanship and stylistic elements. The absence of maker’s marks can likely be explained by the fact that this necklace is a later reassembly of original antique components, repurposed into a wearable collier.
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Dimensions
length 42,00 cm (16,54 inch)
see picture with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
44,30 gram (28,48 dwt)

Adin Reference Nº
19093-0190

Copyright photography
Adin, fine antique jewellery

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