Antique and Vintage Jewellery Lecture:

Throughout history, royalty has played a crucial role in commissioning and shaping jewellery fashion trends, which were eagerly embraced by the nobility and bourgeoisie.

The Church also played a significant role in influencing jewellery design, particularly for silversmiths, though to a lesser extent for goldsmiths. However, the decline of affluent patrons in the latter half of the 20th century had a profound impact on the world of high-end jewellery, resulting in a decline in the production of haute joaillerie.

Renowned maisons such as Cartier, Boucheron, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels retained the prestige they had earned as creators of haute joaillerie during the first half of the 20th century. However, by the late 20th century, these esteemed houses seemed to rely more on their established reputation than on true innovation. Their brands remained highly desirable among an elite clientele, particularly from oil-rich nations, Eastern Europe, and Asia, who often favoured ostentatious, high-priced, branded luxury over genuine artistic craftsmanship.

It was only at the dawn of the 21st century that these haute joaillerie maisons began once again to show signs of innovation, gradually shifting away from their earlier focus on diamond-heavy designs towards more original and artistic creations. A particularly notable example is Dior, which set the tone under the visionary leadership of Victoire de Castellane.

Interestingly, the Second Vatican Council (1962-1965) unintentionally contributed to the decline of silversmithing artistry. As the primary patron of silversmithing, the Church’s decision to simplify religious ceremonies led to a reduced demand for elaborate silverwork.